Singapore Bouldering Gym Review: Boulder Movement Bugis
Highballers everywhere with a chance of falling people
This post is part of a blog series reviewing all the bouldering gyms in Singapore targeted at new climbers and foreign visitors. Check out the origin article here:
Boulder Movement (BM) Bugis Review
At a glance
Environment: 3/5 - In the grander scheme of things, this gym is clean; but not as clean as the other BM gyms and also there’s occasional ceiling leaks here resulting in puddled chalk. Gets unbearably (IMO) crowded during peak hours made worse by having few dedicated off-mat areas. Toilets are also off-site but there’s on-site water coolers, showers, changing rooms, and the usual (for BM) power plugs. No proper seat/table tho
Social experience: 3/5 - Unlike other BMs, you might not get to socialise as much here during peak hours if that’s what you like about climbing. Felt like everyone’s just moving around avoiding other climbers’ fall zones and also most people come here with their own groups and the tend to stick to them.
Training experience: 4/5 - One of the more “fun” gyms with more accessible higher-grade routes. Highest walls amongst all the BM outlets which means a different style of routesetting given the height capacity. A unique and very fun traverse wall is also available and there’s also the moonboard which is above my paygrade.
Around the area: 5/5 - This gym is located in Bugis, and you can’t go wrong in Bugis. Lots of food from street snacks (Bugis Street) to restos (Bugis+ and Bugis Junction) to shopping malls, to famous ramen (Keisuke), to watering holes. This place has it all for both pre and post climb activities.
In point form
The highballer edition BM outlet with fun routes. Located in a popular shopping mall with lots of food and entertainment options around
Mostly slightly inclined and straight walls. Two small overhang sections available. No slab wall
One overhang section wall is usually entirely wildcard-graded (fun wall imo)
Routesetting seems to favour dynamic and coordination movements, routes tend to be more upwards moving as compared to sideways at other gyms with lower walls
There’s usually one super-interesting comp-style wildcard problem on the center island wall
Traverse wall available with about 5-6 routes that can also be done in reverse to make 10-12 routes. This wall was previously a toprope high wall (if you were reading Google Maps reviews and thought it’s still there,)
Moonboard area available
No gym equipment available at this gym
Demographics tends to be on the younger side, usually a few groups of new climbers to be careful about
Feels dangerous when it gets crowded because of a combination of higher-than-usual walls and lack of dedicated no-mat areas
Really good food both cheap and expensive around the area, lots of entertainment and sightseeing options as well
Recommended for tourists since it’s also near touristy areas
Not recommended for beginners especially those with a fear of heights
Logistics
Grades: 1-8 petals, with 1s being V0/V1, 2s being V1/2 till 8 which is V7+
Shoe rentals and socks sales available
Download the Boulder Movement app and sign the waiver, pass purchase is also through the app only
One of the few gyms which is crowd-controlled, you’ll need to book a slot, likely in advance to be able to get in, two slots are avaialble each day, 11 AM - 4:30PM, and 5:30PM - 10PM.
If you’re using someone’s multipass, get them to link you in their app via email, they will have to book the slot for you
Parking is expensive here, avoid driving if you can. There’s a public carpark just behind Bugis+ but it’s usually full near/during peak hours.
Nearest MRTs: Bugis (Green/Blue Line)
Checkout BM’s website/Instagram for routesetting schedule
Checkout BM’s Google Maps place for opening hours
Ask them questions via Instagram DM
Links
Personal Story
My first visit to BM Bugis was terrifying.
I was used to the lower walls of BM Downtown and didn’t have a problem falling from those heights. But BM Bugis was something else.
The height here is similar to BFF Bendemeer’s main walls which isn’t very friendly to beginners IMO. In anyways, that fear was normalised after climbing more and on my latest visit, I found this gym to be one of the more fun BM gyms.
Once I gained more distinctions in routesetting style, I noticed that routes here at the V3/4 and above levels are more cryptic (interesting) and enjoyable. Also if you’re the kind to chase grades, difficulty gradings are slightly softer here given the increased level of commitment needed for the dynamic/coordination moves which sometimes happen at the top
One thing that still holds me back from coming here more often is the lack of dedicated rest places. You can see above that the entire floor is covered in mattress — which is nice for safety while climbing — but also a hazard when new climbers which this gym attracts sit in a fallzone.
The other is higher walls. Falls from high up can result in injuries (I’m 30+, I get pains easily 🙈). Coincidentally, my first semi-serious injury was from this gym where I fell badly after overestimating my span. Had hip and neck pains for about 2 weeks.
The best thing about this gym tho is the availability of food nearby. My personal staple is Keisuke Ramen which has free eggs for post-sesh protein, but you’ll need to leave way before this outlet closes to get there before they stop serving ramen.
Cheers
Till the next review 😀
Got comments/feedback? You can DM me regarding gym bouldering in Singapore at @boulder.joernal on Instagram. Also, always keen to meet new people, ping me for a climb if you want!